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Kenya Journal
(Keith) A safari in Kenya has been one of my life dreams; luckily I was able to make it happen and it did not disappoint. This safari has, so far, been the highlight of the year for me and far exceeded my expectations. It was often not easy due to hot weather, dust, mud, difficult roads, etc., but these difficulties only added to the allure of the safari. Viewing the game in their natural surroundings and sleeping with only tents between us and the animals was exhilarating.
At night the bush came alive: prides of lions roared, hyenas laughed and howled, insects buzzed, hippos grunted, and the wildebeests snorted. All of this occurred near our tents, under a sky filled with millions of stars. We usually huddled around the campfire and listened to stories from Paul, our Kenyan guide. He told us about the rich cultural history of the Kenyan people and the many exciting safaris that he has led.
Our days were spent driving the truck throughout the parks looking for animals. The safari took us over three distinct areas of Kenya: Samburu, the Rift Valley lakes, and Masai Mara. In Samburu we spotted many elephants, zebra, and giraffe. On our first day, we found a young male lion that had killed a baby elephant. It lounged leisurely as we snapped photos and were awed by its beauty. Although slightly disturbing (a baby elephant is very cute . . . ), watching the big cats with their kill is fascinating.
After two days in Samburu we moved to the Rift Valley lakes: Baringo, Bogoria, and Nakuru. These lakes offered some spectacular sights that were completely unexpected. Lake Bogoria has several geysers that spew scalding water into the air. Thousands of flamingos live on the lake. So, as you approach, all you can see is pink; the lake looks as those its blue waters are outlined with a pink swath. At Lake Nakuru we had our most successful day of game viewing. After rambling around in the hot African sun and dust all day, Paul stopped the truck and said "there is a leopard in the bush". Sure enough a large male leopard was within 15 feet of the truck and it had recently (probably within the past 30 minutes) killed a warthog. The leopard was dragging its prey up a small hill to safety. We sat and watched this reclusive cat slowly drag the heavy warthog for about 30 minutes. Interesting, the leopard will then pull its prey into a tree to eat it . . . over the course of the week we saw several dead animal carcasses dangling over the branches of a tree.
Lake Nakuru provided our first view of an entire pride of lions. There were two males and five females; one of the females walked within several feet of our vehicle. They were all dining on a zebra. As we sat and watched, the lions started to roar . . . a very loud and powerful sound!
Finally our safari took us to the world famous Masai Mara Reserve on the border of Tanzania. Luckily this is the time for the annual wildebeest migration. During this time, millions of wildebeest march across the Serengeti to find grazing areas. The park was full of these beasts (and apparently many more to come). On our last game drive we drove past a clump of trees and one of our fellow safariers spotted a lion in the bush. Paul positioned the truck and we watched this lion stalk a wildebeest for over an hour . . . fascinating to watch the patience of the cat as it inched closer and closer to the unknowing prey. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending upon whose side you are on) the wildebeest sensed the lion and bolted away. At this point the lion calmly stood up and went in search of its dinner.
This safari was outstanding; it provided us an opportunity to sleep in the open and experience the African bush in the raw. I anxiously await my next chance to visit this wild and beautiful country.
(Lea) Aside from the amazing wildlife and beautiful scenery, meeting the Kenyan people was a highlight on our safari. From the Gametrackers crew to the villagers we encountered along the route, all were hospitable and proud to show us their country.
There are more than 70 tribal groups among the native Kenyans and though the average Kenyan today has drifted away from traditional customs and dress, the tribe remains an integral part of each Kenyan's identity. Paul, our guide, told us that his grandfather had three wives, but he and most that he knows do not practice older customs such as this. His mother and father believed in monogamy and marrying for love. He, like many Kenyans, retains certain customs but not others. Paul also told us that there are some tribes who continue to live much like they always have. This became more apparent to us as we drove away from the cities and into less populated regions of Samburu and the Rift Valley.
Driving through the Samburu region we were the only 20th century vehicle on a dirt road. We drove past villages lined with huts, women wearing intricate beaded necklaces and kangas (cotton prints), and men carrying spears. Often we had to stop to truck to allow camels (used for milk, transport and occasionally food) to pass. The Samburu children ran out to greet us and wave hello as we passed (actually all Kenyan children we passed greeted us with a smile and a wave).
The other tribe we encountered was the Masai, of Masai Mara region. The Masai are cattle herders and edging the park are their villages filled with cows and goats. Most men we met wore red checked blankets, which is traditional warrior garb. The women and girls wear cloth sarongs. All Masai wore brilliantly beaded necklaces, bracelets and headbands. Though the Masai encounter Western culture and interact with westernized Kenyans and foreigners (selling Masai crafts, doing dances and such) on a daily basis they choose to retain many of their customs and lifestyle.
What we could tell from the Kenyans we met is that they are proud of their country and happy to show it to visitors. The last night around the campfire, as was the usual custom, Paul sat and talked with us. Normally he told us stories from other safaris or about the local people, but this night he thanked us for being such a good group and told us, "I want you to go home thinking that Africa is a good continent and wanting to come back. I want you to tell others that it is a good place. Africa has its problems, but it is filled with good people and is a beautiful land." So I am telling everyone that I think Africa is a great continent and I would encourage anyone to visit. I hope to come back!
Check out our photos from Masai Mara (1), Masai Mara (2), Rift Valley, and Samburu.