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Jaipur Journal
(Lea) Jaipur's streets are lined with men in turbans, carts
being pulled by camels and women with nose rings wearing bright orange and red
flowing saris. If it weren't for the cars I could swear we were back in the time
of the Rajputs. Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan, land of the kings. The
Rajputs were a warrior class who ruled this state for over 1000 years. The
Rajasthan state is
located in the northwest region of India, the desert. Throughout the region the
Rajput maharajas (rulers) left their marks
with amazing forts and palaces.
We first visited Amber, which was the first capital of the Jaipur state; construction of the fort palace began in 1562. The Amber palace and fort, perched on top of a hill, are great examples of Rajput architecture. The palace is full of open air rooms and terraces decorated with mosaics, inlaid panels and mirrors. There is even an area in the palace called the Hall of Pleasure, which contains a channel running through it with cooling water to combat the desert heat. The maharajas certainly knew how to live!
The next day we explored the Old City of Jaipur - the "Pink City." After Amber, the capital was moved here and the City Palace Complex constructed. The City Palace is full of open air courtyards, and like Amber, decorated with mosaics (see the picture of me in the Peacock Gate). The recent maharaja (the maharajas no longer hold great political power nor receive a government stipend, so many now make money through turning their palaces into luxury hotels and/or museums ) lives in part of the Old Palace and the remainder is open to the public. The entire Old City is painted pink; this was done by a maharaja in 1876 to welcome the Prince of Wales. We were expecting a Pepto Bismol sort of pink, but it is actually more of a burnt orange and much prettier than I expected.
I thoroughly enjoyed Jaipur, with its ancient forts and palaces. Also, we stayed in a wonderful family run hotel, Meghniwas, owned by Mrs. Singh (www.meghniwas.com). Our room was furnished with antiques and looked out on the green front lawn where we could play croquet (see Keith's picture)! In the back was a another beautiful garden and a swimming pool, where I enjoyed swimming laps after our sightseeing. All this for less than $30, in what easily would have been an expensive bed and breakfast in the States! This was a great oasis to return to away from the hustle and chaos of the city. India can be overwhelming, but if you have a quiet and relaxing place to return to, you really can enjoy the vibrant culture and history that this country has to offer.
(Keith)
India
is a difficult place and a beautiful place. The contrasting nature of this
country is not as I expected. The poverty and filth drains our energy
and often leaves us with a feeling of being trapped in our hotel or restaurant.
Upon leaving our hotel we are confronted by numerous rickshaw drivers that want
to take us to restaurants, handicraft shops, airport, train station, you name it
. . . and they are very persistent. Many of the cities are highly
polluted, and many people live on the street. The whole scene quickly
drains your energy.
But once we arrive at our destination (be it a restaurant, fort, temple, or other site) I have not been disappointed. The food in India is outstanding; by far the best food we have had since Thailand. Of course we have to be extremely careful what we eat (no meat), but we have had excellent meals of curried vegetables and eggs, korma, achar, naan, dal, etc. everywhere we go.
The tourist sites also do not disappoint. The forts and temples are first class and some of the best in the world. Once you fight your way through the touts and beggars, you are rewarded with historical monuments that you are free to roam and explore at your own leisure. You can easily (and cheaply) hire very knowledgeable Indian guides who will explain the attraction in detail and greatly add to your experience.
The people we have met at our hotels and restaurants have been very friendly and professional. They take a genuine interest in ensuring that our stay/meal is comfortable and enjoyable. We have also hired several drivers for the day, and they too have been extremely helpful in showing us the cities and attractions.
We have met several people that have tried to do India on the cheap (and you certainly can if you have the fortitude), but they always seem to come away disappointed. Therefore to increase our pleasure and maintain sanity, we decided to stay in slightly nicer places . . . and there are some very nice places, fly between most cities (bus and train travel is very tiring here . . . ), and eat at some nicer restaurants (pretty easy . . . food is cheap). I think India is a great experience and I would definitely come back, but I also think that it is a place where you need to spend a little more to fully enjoy its rich history.
Check out our Jaipur photos.