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Annapurna Trek Journal
Our 12 day trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary began in an office in Kathmandu where we met our guide . . . we would later pick-up the porter in Pokhara (the trail head). We had spent the day buying some miscellaneous gear to ensure we would be warm on the walk and were very anxious to get out of the city and into the mountains. Hiring a guide, porter, and buying equipment created an air of adventure and excitement as we headed off towards the Himalayas.
Once on the trail, the trekking was very different from that we've done in the United States, Europe, or Thailand. Most of the trails in the Himalayas are actually foot roads used by the locals to travel between villages . . . there are no cars, no airplanes, only feet. Therefore we were often passed by donkey trains and people carrying supplies high into the mountains. The Nepal mountain people carry extremely heavy loads on their backs; often we were passed by men, women, and even children carrying 30, 40, even 80 lb baskets.
The villages are often perched on the side of a mountain where ledges have been built to plant crops. Life in these mountains is obviously very difficult: the terrain is unforgiving due to its rocky, steep nature; the weather is punishing . . . often raining, sleeting, snowing, and sunny in the same day; and health care often requires days of walking. Despite these hardships the people seem to lead a rich life: we were often greeted by a hearty, Namaste (Hello), as we passed the locals; the villages are alive with culture and tradition as singing, dancing, and laughing could often be heard as night fell.
Special lodges have been built to accommodate trekkers; on the Annapurna Sanctuary trek, these lodges are rather basic . . . providing little more than a thin mattress and a hot meal. Nights often got very cold and we were happy to have good sleeping bags and warm jackets. At night all the trekkers huddled around lanterns and candles, where we talked, played cards, and ate. The camaraderie between the fellow travelers with their guides and porters made the lodges an integral part of the trekking experience and provided us an opportunity to meet some very interesting people.
As we walked higher, the scenery of the Himalayas did not disappoint; we were often rewarded with breath taking views of the snow covered mountains, rain forests, rhododendron forests, monkeys, and yaks. Our goal was the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). This camp is the final "walking" point before attempting to summit one of the mountains in the Annapurna range; the Annapurna range contains the 8th, 9th, 10th, 12th, 13th, 15th and 17th highest mountains in the world.
As we approached the final days before the steep ascent towards ABC (2500 m over 2 days), we became very disillusioned with the competence of our guide and realized that we would be making the decisions concerning the safety of the trek on our own. On the seventh day of very strenuous trekking, we awoke early to begin the final 4-6 hour climb towards ABC. Several areas along this trail are prone to avalanche and must be traversed in the early morning before the snow has had time to melt. After walking for 3 hours over ice, snow, and a newly fallen avalanche, we made the very difficult decision to turn back; our equipment (specifically our boots) would not hold us to the icy terrain and a slip could easily plunge one of us over a rocky cliff. Our guide suggested we wait until some of the snow melted . . . we didn't agree. Two days later, 4 people were killed in the same area where we decided to turn back, due to an avalanche.
Although the decision to not continue was very difficult considering the effort we had expended to get so close, it was a good one. On our return trip, we decided that we would undertake another trek, this time on our own. This second trek, The Jomsom Trek, was an outstanding complement to the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek as it provided very diverse culture and new mountain scenes. Below is Lea's diary of our first trek.
3/12/01, 3 Hours, Hille
After a bumpy ride from Pokhara, with our porter and guide we starting hiking in
Nayapul. Today’s hike was
relatively easy, mainly flat, so we enjoyed the fresh air, green mountains,
farmland and local villages. Along the way we encountered donkey trains carrying
supplies to villages in the mountains, trekkers along the trail, and locals
carrying amazing loads on their backs in baskets with straps from the baskets
secured to their heads. At our first “teahouse”, basic accommodation
normally with cots in the rooms, communal shower with hot water (solar powered),
we ate in a dining hall and met 4 other hikers.
3/13/01, 5 Hours, Ghorepani
UP, UP, UP and Pain. In the morning we ascended over 1000m - equivalent to 5
hours on a Stairmaster's highest level (but with better views)! To take our mind
of the pain, Keith and I marveled at the diversity of our surroundings
- snow peaked mountains in the distance, a rainforest with lush greenery,
and blooming red rhododendron forests. The
weather changed from sunny to rain and hail, but we managed to avoid most of it
by stopping for lunch during the major storm. At lunch all the hikers huddled
around a fire as two German trekkers entertained everyone with great folk
singing.
3/14/01, 6 Hours, Tadapani
At 5:00 am, dark, cold, and with a sore throat, I trudged up Poon Hill. We
arrived at the top as the sun rose and it was worth it. Pink light danced
across the snow capped Himalayas, which included Dhaulagiri, 5th
highest peak in the world. Perfect
weather and perfect views. After descending and enjoying a great breakfast (our
teahouse is owned by an extremely hospitable retired Gurkha Indian Army
soldier), we followed a river through the woods to Tadapani. Along the way I
bought a handmade scarf and shawl to keep me warm because it was snowing!
3/15/01, 3 Hours, Ghandruk
My throat is worse, but with hot lemon tea and aspirin today’s shorter trek
was easy. Talking to other trekkers we discovered that the trail to Annapurna
Base Camp is filled with thigh high snow and icy conditions. We asked our guide
if he thought our equipment (mainly the boots) were good enough for that trail,
but he did not offer much advice. Keith and I decided we will still try for ABC,
but on our own will decide if we need to turn back.
3/16/01, 4 Hours, Chomrong
Down, down, down then up, up, up. I sang Beatles songs and told myself this
hike was very good for both the calves then the thighs. As we ascended we
enjoyed crystal clear views of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhare. Tomorrow is
the big push and ascent to Himalaya Hotel; from there we enter the snowy
Sanctuary area. Once we leave Chomrong, the villages we encounter going up are
no longer “real” but there specifically for trekkers attempting to reach
ABC.
3/17/01, 6 Hours, Himalaya Hotel
Snow greeted us just as we arrived at Himalaya Hotel. We fell onto our cots
after a day of pushing up over 1000m to an elevation of 2900m. Along the route
we again crossed through forests and were surprised by white bearded langur
monkeys in the trees. Both my stomach and throat did not feel quite right, but I
downed some antibiotics, aspirin and lemon tea. We met friendly American,
Australian, and Swedish trekkers in the lodge and enjoyed an evening of talking
in the dining hall (it was too cold to go anywhere else!); there was a great
feeling of camaraderie and excitement. Tomorrow the goal is Machhapuchhare Base
Camp, which is only 1-2 hours from ABC. One of the Australians told us he turned
back at MBC because of altitude sickness.
3/18/01, 6 Hours, Up to Deurali and down to Dolbo
The entire trail past Himalaya hotel was ice. Everything around us was white; we
were hiking amongst the snow-capped mountains. For the first two hours both
Keith and I were slipping and sliding everywhere; a fall would have meant down
the icy cliffs and rocks. At one point we crossed over a recently fallen
avalanche. Just after reaching Deurali, 3200m, and 1 hour from MBC, we both slid
uncontrollably down the trail. At that point we (our guide provided no input)
decided that our boots were not good enough for this type of weather and turned
back. (3 days later 4 trekkers died near the spot where we turned back in an
avalanche. Apparently there has been abnormal weather for this time of year).
It was a hard decision, and disappointing getting so close, but a smart
one. Trekked for 4 more hours to get down to Dolba. Despite turning back, I
enjoyed a moment of incredulity and amazement that I was actually hiking in the
Himalayas.
3/19/01, 5 Hours, Chomrong
My sore throat is gone…passed it to Keith. The hike down to Chomrong was
relatively easy, all downhill until we arrived at the bottom of Chomrong. Then
back up, up, up to get to the lodges. Along the way stopped at the village
school and donated some rupees. There was hot water at the lodge so I took my
first shower in a few days and washed some clothes. Sat on the lodge rooftop and
watched the world go by.
3/20/01, 1 Hour, Jyanu
Jyanu is famous for its nearby Hot Springs, which is why we stopped here.
However, after arriving and eating lunch, it stormed the rest of the day so we
missed the springs! Enjoyed a game of chess, cards and reading instead. Our
guide pointed out a nearby group who are preparing to climb Everest – they are
trekking in the Annapurnas as a warm up. (We read in the newspaper that 3
of the trekkers in the avalanche sadly turned out to be from this group.)
3/21/01, 5 Hours, Tolka
Much of our hike to Tolka followed the Modi Khola river. The mountains are
becoming more distant and the terrain more dusty. At this point, with the
disappointment of not reaching ABC, we are ready to get back to Pokhara.
However, we think we are going to try another trek after a few days of
relaxing…there is something wonderful about being outside surrounded by
mountains.
3/22/01, 3 Hours, Pothana
Trekkers RAN by us this morning. We discovered they were running the entire
Annapurna Circuit, a sponsored race…crazy! The trail contained much up and
down today. We decided we will try to reach ABC again on a second trek, if we
can buy better boots in Pokhara. In Pothana we still enjoyed glorious views of
the mountains. I met an older gentleman who is on a camping trek to ABC; he
always dreamed of trekking in Nepal and finally is fulfilling his dream. I am so
lucky to already fulfill this dream; Keith and I hope to someday visit again and
trek in Nepal with our children.
3/23/01, 2 Hours, Phedi
Our guide told us the last day would only take 3 hours. In our excitement to
return we hiked it in 2. It was downhill all the way to Phedi where we taxied
back to Pokhara. A hot shower, clean clothes and beer later, Keith and I started
planning our next trek. Though disappointed we did not get to ABC, the overall
trek was a great experience – the scenery, village locals and other trekkers
made it all worthwhile. We will relax for a few days, but are already excited to
return to the mountains.
Check out more Annapurna Trek Photos.